The Genteel
December 13, 2017
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Andy Warhol with Yves Saint Laurent, Mary Russell and Pierre Berge. Versailles '73. Source: wwd.com.

The Genteel editors on what we're seeing, doing, reading and anticipating for the week ahead.

EVENTS

CHICAGO - Fashion and the Field Museum Collection: Maria Pinto. A translucent raincoat made of seal intestines. An artfully sewn vest of crocodile skin. A chic evening gown of rubber-coated thread. This thoughtful presentation showcases clothing masterworks from the Museum's collections, selected by esteemed Chicago fashion designer Maria Pinto. These works are presented in tandem with contemporary pieces created by Pinto herself and displayed exclusively at The Field Museum. Pinto Museum (until June 16, 2013).

CHICAGO - The Lost Vanguard: Soviet Modernist Architecture, 1922-32. This exhibition documents the work of modernist architects in the Soviet Union in the years following the 1917 revolution and the period of instability during the subsequent civil war. In little more than a decade, some of the most radical buildings of the twentieth century were completed by a small group of architects who developed a new architectural language in support of new social goals of communal life. Rarely published and virtually inaccessible until the collapse of the Soviet regime, these important buildings have remained unknown and unappreciated. The buildings featured in the exhibition are located in a wide territory spanning the former Soviet Union that includes Azerbaijan, Ukraine, Georgia and Russia, and are drawn from an archive of approximately 15,000 photographs taken by British photographer Richard Pare during extensive visits that began in 1992. Madlener House (October 11, 2012 - February 16, 2013).

Soviet modern architecture Richard Pare
Konstantin Meinikov's personal home, 1931.
Copyright Richard Pare, 2007.

VANCOUVER Eco Fashion Week. Robson Square (October 16-19).

NEW YORK - Katharine Hepburn: Dressed for Stage and Screen. Katharine Hepburn knew the importance of costume in defining character and drawing the audience into a story. The exhibit includes costumes Hepburn kept in her personal collection of performance clothes, wardrobe which she wore for publicity, and examples of "rebel chic" from her casual and rehearsal wear. Augmented with film still, posters and playbills, the exhibition spans her long career in theater, film and television. The Lincoln Center presentation will also include costume research, sketches and comments from Hepburn's correspondence, scripts and notebooks in the Katharine Hepburn Papers. New York Library for the Performing Arts (October 18, 2012 - January 12, 2013).

LONDON - Hollywood Costume. The V&A's autumn exhibition explores the central role costume design plays in cinema storytelling. Bringing together over 100 of the most iconic movie costumes from across a century of film-making, see the clothes worn by unforgettable and beloved characters such as Dorothy Gale, Indiana Jones, Scarlett O'Hara, Jack Sparrow, Holly Golightly and Darth Vader. Victoria & Albert Museum (October 20, 2012 - January 27, 2013).

Claudia Costa explores the costume workshops of Milan's hallowed La Scala theatre, discovering the magic that happens behind the red velvet curtain.

Cristina Fei spends at day at Rome's Tirelli costume atelier, where the costumes for some of the world's most famous films were created, including The Passion of Christ, The English Patient and The Raven.

Alina Kulesh speaks with Academy Award-nominated costume designer, Jacqueline Durran, about her most recent work, Anna Karenina, starring Keira Knightley.

ISTANBUL - Istanbul Design Biennial. The first Istanbul Design Biennial aims to underline the importance of design for production, economy, cultural interaction and quality of life. The event will be open to all disciplines of the creative industries in major fields such as urban design, architecture, interior design, industrial design, graphic design, new media design and fashion design, as well as their subfields. Various locations (October 13, 2012 - December 12, 2012).

BOOKS

Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf Goodman (Harper's Design). A New York institution and fashion Mecca, Bergdorf Goodman is where Grace Kelly ordered her wedding invitations; where Jacqueline Kennedy was outfitted for her dress for John F. Kennedy's Inaugural Ball; where designers Halston and Michael Kors got their starts. Bergdorf Goodman captures the imagination, inspires fantasy, and plays a central role in the history of New York society. Its inner realm is revealed in this illustrated book, an exclusive companion to the fashion documentary, Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf's.

Bergdorf Goodman is celebrating its 111th anniversary this year. Semhar Woldeyesus reports on an exclusive fall collection, limited edition pieces and a host of special events - in other words, let's get the party started!

Heels on Wheels: A Lady's Guide to Owning and Riding a Bike (Hardie Grant). Learning to ride a bike is easy, but getting back on one if you're over the age of 12 - and have developed a penchant for high heels - can be a daunting task. In this book, Katie Dailey offers sage advice to the modern gal who would like to get back in the saddle after a short (or very long) hiatus. Find out how to choose your trusty steed, stay safe on the road, fix a puncture and select the best lock for your bicycle. As well as this, more pressing issues are covered, including how to combat helmet hair, wearing a skirt without losing your dignity, and all the exciting things you can buy to pimp your ride.

Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf Goodman
Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf Goodman celebrates 
111 years of the iconic Manhattan institution. 
Source: blog.bergdorfgoodman.com.

FILM

Versailles 73: American Runway RevolutionNot many moments in life change the course of history; break the mold; shatter the status quo and usher in a paradigm shift. But on a chilly night in November 1973, such a moment took place. For the second time in history, the Americans stormed France in an epic battle. This battle, however, would pit the French haute couture establishment against innovative American ready-to-wear designers in a runway rumble for industry dominance. On the stage where Louis XVI married Marie Antoinette, in front of a who's who audience of royalty, jet-set millionaires, and icons including Princess Grace of Monaco, Andy Warhol, Christina Onassis and Josephine Baker, the American designers claimed victory. The extraordinary evening left an unforgettable imprint on the fashion industry and forever changed fashion history. (Screening dates. Next screening: Toronto, October 20.)

ONLINE

TechCrunch - "Software is eating the fashion world and VCs are going shopping." There is no doubt that fashion startups are the new black. But there will clearly be a few discontinued lines in the future. 

Semhar Woldeyesus reports on how fashion tech start-ups are transforming the New York fashion industry. 

Vanity Fair - VF picks for the most innovative custom and bespoke tailors for every price point.

Fast Co.Design - Richard Pare spent two decades photographing "rarely published and virtually inaccessible" buildings by the visionary architects who worked before Stalin rose to power. Have a look.

Chictopia - Who would your picks be for New York's next "It" designer? See who made the cut. 

New York Times - Impressionism, fashion and the Belle Époque at the Musée d’Orsey: Suzy Menkes goes for a tour.

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